Nazaré
Trip Report: Slices of Portugal & Extremadura Spain
To the beach
So now we had reached the last stage of our trip. The beach. Overall, we are not beach people. We tried some beach resort vacations in the past and while they were great when we were counting pennies or when we traveled with kids or young teens, sitting on a beach to bake was just not appealing anymore. A good ocean cottage with a walking beach was however.
We packed the car and reluctantly left our cabin by the river bidding adieu to Antonio on the way out. Since I was finally getting comfortable with the confusion of the tollways here, we easily found our way to A1 – the major Lisbon to Porto tollway – and turned south. It was much busier than any of the other tollways we drove the whole trip, so I popped over closer to the coast to the much lesser-used A29/A17/A8 combo for our longish jaunt. We left all of the mountains behind and we had a pleasant drive until Google GPS let us blow by our exit. Then she seized up (again) when I took the next one hoping for an alternate route. So I gave up and backtracked and she started behaving. I had aimed her at an Intermarché supermarket in Pataias, which was close to our next rental, so we could replenish our groceries. A big store, it had a butcher who spoke some English which made our meat selection much easier. It also had an outdoor laundromat in the parking lot which we found a bit odd . . .
We packed the car and reluctantly left our cabin by the river bidding adieu to Antonio on the way out. Since I was finally getting comfortable with the confusion of the tollways here, we easily found our way to A1 – the major Lisbon to Porto tollway – and turned south. It was much busier than any of the other tollways we drove the whole trip, so I popped over closer to the coast to the much lesser-used A29/A17/A8 combo for our longish jaunt. We left all of the mountains behind and we had a pleasant drive until Google GPS let us blow by our exit. Then she seized up (again) when I took the next one hoping for an alternate route. So I gave up and backtracked and she started behaving. I had aimed her at an Intermarché supermarket in Pataias, which was close to our next rental, so we could replenish our groceries. A big store, it had a butcher who spoke some English which made our meat selection much easier. It also had an outdoor laundromat in the parking lot which we found a bit odd . . .
The last bit of the drive from Pataias was through another major burn area. The pine forest – almost all of the way to the ocean – had been burnt last year. Just stumps and stacks of darkened logs in sand was all that remained. The fire had jumped the road very close to the development where we were staying and gotten within 30m of some of the houses. Scary stuff.
We were staying at Praia da Falca which is a small collection of beach and near-beach houses and condos just north of Nazaré, and its famed Praia do Norte. This is the beach that produces the world’s highest surfing waves. Brazilian surfer Rodrigo Koxa broke the previous world record by surfing a monster 80 foot wave (24.38 metres) last November. The combination of the right weather and the beach’s offshore geography is the secret to this phenomenon, but we were off-season for that. And speaking of off-season, the Nazaré beach area was just starting to come alive for the spring. The weather was warm during the day but still very cool at night. And then there was that cold breeze in the evening . . .
Our house was on a bluff overlooking the beach below (and a ramshackle house in the sea grass). We had the upper level with a large patio for watching the crashing waves. It was obviously a fertile part of the coast with fishing boats always out at sea in front of us and solitary fishermen casting into the surf on the beach. The house’s owner was away so his father was there to greet us. He spoke no English so we communicated in French (his was far better). He left us a couple of the ubiquitous pastéis de nata (custard tarts) and a glass each of liqueur - which was a very nice touch. Obrigado.
We were staying at Praia da Falca which is a small collection of beach and near-beach houses and condos just north of Nazaré, and its famed Praia do Norte. This is the beach that produces the world’s highest surfing waves. Brazilian surfer Rodrigo Koxa broke the previous world record by surfing a monster 80 foot wave (24.38 metres) last November. The combination of the right weather and the beach’s offshore geography is the secret to this phenomenon, but we were off-season for that. And speaking of off-season, the Nazaré beach area was just starting to come alive for the spring. The weather was warm during the day but still very cool at night. And then there was that cold breeze in the evening . . .
Our house was on a bluff overlooking the beach below (and a ramshackle house in the sea grass). We had the upper level with a large patio for watching the crashing waves. It was obviously a fertile part of the coast with fishing boats always out at sea in front of us and solitary fishermen casting into the surf on the beach. The house’s owner was away so his father was there to greet us. He spoke no English so we communicated in French (his was far better). He left us a couple of the ubiquitous pastéis de nata (custard tarts) and a glass each of liqueur - which was a very nice touch. Obrigado.
The next day we headed into town. Rather than driving into Nazaré proper, we went to the headland above which is a neighbourhood called Sítio. We easily found the main square, and more by accident than not, we drove right around it and down to the lighthouse. The small lot was full but I parked by the side of the road – like others were doing. This saved us the long walk down and back up but I am sure that in-season that this would have been impossible. Inside the lighthouse (for a small fee) you get to see some of the surfboards that have been used on the beach and from the ramparts you can take some scenic pictures. Standing at the peak, it is hard to image 80 foot waves crashing below let alone people surfing them. Praia do Norte – a very wide beach – ran north from this point.
We drove back into the square and I parked on a nearby side street so we could walk the town. Actually, to be honest, I sat in the square in the sun watching some musicians busk the slim crowd in front of the cathedral while my wife trolled the souvenir shops. It was just warm enough in the sun sitting out of the breeze to be really comfortable. We took the ascensor down to Nazaré and cruised the restaurants looking for a candidate for lunch. I was surprised to see a number of people tanning on the beach but the majority did have wind screens. We settled for an eatery – Nova Casa Cação – in one of the side streets leading to the ascensor. Lunch was fine but not memorable but the people watching was good.
Rescuing the car from up above, we headed back to the house. After a brief stop, we drove over to the road nearby that went down the bluff to a car park for beach access. There was a trail through the dunes near our house for the adventurous but it was much easier to drive. I know, we’re lazy, but my back y’know . . .
The sun decided to disappear just around the time we hit sand and the few brave sunbathers were packing up (including the nudist couple). The lone fisherman shook his head when I asked about his success. We were losing the light so we didn’t stay long, vowing to walk to the headland in the north the next day.
We had a good steak barbeque on the outdoor brick grill on the side of the house. On odd contraption with a bake oven in the rear. Fresh fire-baked bread anyone?
Rescuing the car from up above, we headed back to the house. After a brief stop, we drove over to the road nearby that went down the bluff to a car park for beach access. There was a trail through the dunes near our house for the adventurous but it was much easier to drive. I know, we’re lazy, but my back y’know . . .
The sun decided to disappear just around the time we hit sand and the few brave sunbathers were packing up (including the nudist couple). The lone fisherman shook his head when I asked about his success. We were losing the light so we didn’t stay long, vowing to walk to the headland in the north the next day.
We had a good steak barbeque on the outdoor brick grill on the side of the house. On odd contraption with a bake oven in the rear. Fresh fire-baked bread anyone?
The next morning we ran to the supermarket but neither of us could think up a good enough reason to go further afield. There were monasteries and cathedrals and caves etc but they all involved lineups and crowds and roundabouts and getting lost, so we went back to the house for lunch and a peaceful beach walk instead. I actually turned on the TV (for the first time during our holiday) to watch some of the royal wedding in Windsor during lunch. After the ceremony I looked outside . . . and . . . you couldn’t see anything. A fog bank had moved in, completely obscuring the beach below and everything else. Hmm. Maybe we should wait a while before we took that walk . . .
A while turned out to be for the rest of our stay.
So we loafed around the house reading and napping for the afternoon, and having another barbecue dinner and the usual bottle of wine that evening. As excitement, an energetic Swiss family of 4 showed up to occupy the lower level and I told them to use the coals for their food - which they happily did.
So except for a brief break the next morning, the beach was fogged in until we packed the car and left just before noon. Oh well . . .
The drive back to Lisbon was the easiest drive of the trip. Even though the A1 spit me out into that horrendous 4 lane roundabout near the airport, I was familiar enough to know to just barge my way through and go like mad to the road I wanted.
So, once again, I amazingly returned a rental car unscathed.
For the flight back, I had grabbed bulkhead seats (for a price) when seating opened up 36 hours before the flight. The flight was uneventful. TAP Portugal did their job.
A while turned out to be for the rest of our stay.
So we loafed around the house reading and napping for the afternoon, and having another barbecue dinner and the usual bottle of wine that evening. As excitement, an energetic Swiss family of 4 showed up to occupy the lower level and I told them to use the coals for their food - which they happily did.
So except for a brief break the next morning, the beach was fogged in until we packed the car and left just before noon. Oh well . . .
The drive back to Lisbon was the easiest drive of the trip. Even though the A1 spit me out into that horrendous 4 lane roundabout near the airport, I was familiar enough to know to just barge my way through and go like mad to the road I wanted.
So, once again, I amazingly returned a rental car unscathed.
For the flight back, I had grabbed bulkhead seats (for a price) when seating opened up 36 hours before the flight. The flight was uneventful. TAP Portugal did their job.