Kruger National Park
South Africa
South Africa
Trip Report: Leaf Leopards & Stone Lions: Kamping in Kruger
Talamati Bushveld Camp
Now it was time to leave the major slice of goodness called Shimuwini. Yes, we loved the camp. If/when we return it will be on the list. But we could not doddle because our next destination was 4 hours 43 minutes away according to Google Maps. Another Bushveld: Talamati. I had originally booked Olifants and for the next day I was kind of regretting the change. And then . . . well, you will just have to wait . . .
Of course, that 4:43 was not Kruger time. I estimated about 6 to 7 hours and that was pretty much what it was. With a pit stop at Letaba and groceries and fuel at Satara plus some slowdowns for the usual goodies along the way.
Speaking of which, our first sighting was a beautiful giraffe as we drove out S141 for the last time. I opted to stay on tar for most of the journey to try to maintain some level of predictability. Up H14 to H1 then all the way down to the Orpen-Satara Rd.
Of course, that 4:43 was not Kruger time. I estimated about 6 to 7 hours and that was pretty much what it was. With a pit stop at Letaba and groceries and fuel at Satara plus some slowdowns for the usual goodies along the way.
Speaking of which, our first sighting was a beautiful giraffe as we drove out S141 for the last time. I opted to stay on tar for most of the journey to try to maintain some level of predictability. Up H14 to H1 then all the way down to the Orpen-Satara Rd.
After a brief visit to the Letaba ‘facilities’ it was more tar H1. Just south of the Olifants cutoff, 2 hyenas loped across the road in front of us but we just got a ‘butt in the bushes picture’ of one. We slipped into the N’wamanzi Viewpoint forgetting to roll our windows up as we got out. Yeah, amateurs. I should know better since I troll the forums. Monkeys, of course. But we got very, very lucky . . . they only hit the car that followed us in which was a load of 20s somethings. A vervet jumped in and snagged an apple from their car as my wife called out a warning to all. And then we all raced over to close up. They are amazing hit and run artists. The monkeys were the show here despite the magnificent view with ellies off in the distance. Here is the thief with his prize.
More tar road heading south followed with surprisingly our first wildebeest of the trip sighting and the usual kabillion impalas until we stopped at Satara for supplies. Then it was a big turn west on the Orpen Road with a very nicely mudded elephant to greet us. I bet the elephants love all of the water this year.
Before long we cut south on the bone-jarring pitifully corrugated S36. It was a painful road. If you went too slow, the SUV seemed to fall into a bounce rhythm that only a shot of throttle would quell. While rhythm on a dance floor is a good thing, it was not appreciated here. And if you went too fast, you were just a dust plume and you could not sight game well. We stopped in at the Muzandzeni picnic area for a quick bite and some respite from the road torture. Just before this stop, a herd of buffalo were grazing in the distance but there was not much sign of life here. And at the Shimangwaneni Dam only some vultures were in evidence.
Turning west again on S145 we came to the oddly tree-split road. It certainly was much greener here than further north where fall was in swing.
But the corrugation did not really let up. A fast – too fast – driver came up behind us. I yielded by diving off-road and he sped off. I forgot to snap his plate but I suspect that he was a guide at one of the hidden resorts in the nearby concessions here since this road seemed to have some shuttle travel as well.
Just after 2pm we pulled into the gate at Talamati. It was somewhat of a letdown after the beautiful Shimuwini. Our bungalow – a GC6 – was large but it certainly looked as if it had seen better days. I can’t say that it was dirty but like Skukuza, it should be put on the ‘in need of a fresh’ list ASAP. The bird hide and the pond were as promised except the bulk of the latter was obscured by vegetation from the hide. And since it was the middle of the afternoon it was vacant except for a few ducks. The bark of baboons gave us a warning of their presence in the sunken dry riverbed behind the bungalows but we never had a raid for the 2 nights we stayed.
But the corrugation did not really let up. A fast – too fast – driver came up behind us. I yielded by diving off-road and he sped off. I forgot to snap his plate but I suspect that he was a guide at one of the hidden resorts in the nearby concessions here since this road seemed to have some shuttle travel as well.
Just after 2pm we pulled into the gate at Talamati. It was somewhat of a letdown after the beautiful Shimuwini. Our bungalow – a GC6 – was large but it certainly looked as if it had seen better days. I can’t say that it was dirty but like Skukuza, it should be put on the ‘in need of a fresh’ list ASAP. The bird hide and the pond were as promised except the bulk of the latter was obscured by vegetation from the hide. And since it was the middle of the afternoon it was vacant except for a few ducks. The bark of baboons gave us a warning of their presence in the sunken dry riverbed behind the bungalows but we never had a raid for the 2 nights we stayed.
This night I finally resolved my braai issues. I now have a 100% start-every-time method. Use ½ block of the white block firestarter that is available from the camp shops. Add a smattering of briquettes as a core. Add some dry kindling. And teepee the dry split logs on top. Light it and go sip a beverage for an hour. Turn the logs and wait until the flames subside and braai.
Little did we know as we went to bed that the next day we were going to have one of THOSE sightings.
Little did we know as we went to bed that the next day we were going to have one of THOSE sightings.