Kruger National Park
South Africa
South Africa
Trip Report: Leaf Leopards & Stone Lions: Kamping in Kruger
Berg-en-Dal Rest Camp
Berg-en-Dahl is a very modern camp in comparison to many. Our unit had a view of the perimeter fence which is electrified to keep the nasties out. And even though you might not see them, they are there. The camp is very good-looking and well kept - as was our unit. It was all-brick with a thatched roof. An inside kitchen with cooktop, microwave, fridge, toaster, kettle etc. All the essentials you need to self-cater. It had a very comfortable covered patio with table and chairs and a nice brick braai. That's South African for bar-b-que btw. We were very pleased. BA3U #29, which in camp nomenclature means a bungalow for 3 on the camp perimeter fence.
We had some anonymous food at the camp's restaurant - sitting outside by candle light. Ah . . .
We had some anonymous food at the camp's restaurant - sitting outside by candle light. Ah . . .
The next morning we got an early start since we both got up at crazy hours of the night. The weather prediction was cloudy with a high in the high 20s – but no rain. After a light breakfast, we jumped into the white beast and hit the dirt road that heads north and east from a junction just outside of the camp. Since this was our first visit to this corner of Kruger, we were very pleasantly surprised by the hills and the mountains looming in the background of our pictures. The park was lush and green with little evidence of the oncoming winter - or the drought of the last 2 years.
The dirt road was in decent shape with some washboard and bumpy sections. I drove in full sighting mode – about 20kph or less. We were quite happy to have the Fortuner that gave us a longer wheelbase to ease the bumps and to help us see over the grass. And a high vehicle is precisely what we needed for our next big sighting . . .
A pride of lions lying off to the side of the road in the brush. A difficult photo challenge because of poor light and distance with some grass in the way as well. It was also a new camera for my wife so she grew into it as time went on and on some of these you can see some white bleed from the white hood of the white beast so I will admit to some PhotoShop abuse on them. Another driver had discovered the lions so we were second in the game and by the time we left (when the lions did after 10 minutes), cars were streaming to the sighting. Somebody had tagged it on a Geotracker and it was a holiday weekend . . .
We were ecstatic to hit one of the jackpots so early but we were determined to really see the animals and take our time with every sighting. On our first trip last year with only 4 nights in the public park, we rushed through racking up the animal count as fast as possible. So this time, some lesser creatures also got our deserved attention . . .
We were ecstatic to hit one of the jackpots so early but we were determined to really see the animals and take our time with every sighting. On our first trip last year with only 4 nights in the public park, we rushed through racking up the animal count as fast as possible. So this time, some lesser creatures also got our deserved attention . . .
Other highlights . . .
After a refuel, a nap and a walk along the Berg’s lovely dam, we were ready for an afternoon drive. I should explain our team system. I drive because I am good at it and I am a million miler behind a steering wheel. I carry our older Canon Rebel xsi DSLR (with a cheap 18-135 zoom) in my lap and my secret weapon – my trusty Sony RX100 in a belt pack. I keep us on the road and scan ahead and right and try to position the white beast for good photos. My wife is the designated ‘chief photographer’ using her new Panasonic DMC-F22500 with its 24-480 zoom that she got as a retirement gift at the end of the year. My photographer cousin Lynne had recommended it. Its images are stunning but Blanca was still learning its frustrating array of features and functions. In the car, she scans left primarily but also does all-round scanning with corrections to the driver as needed. Bush! Road! Tree! Stop! Backup! You Idiot! etc . . . Here I am in our bungalow studying the Panasonic manual before the drive:
After several impalas, we were eager for bigger game. I spied a herd of elephants moving on a ridge line to the north and I calculated that they would intersect the dirt around the next corner near the top of the hill. I positioned the car, readied the cameras and I was right. They were coming straight toward us.
Wow. A great sighting. It is impossible to describe the feeling of being this close to a herd of elephants. You always have to remember that this is their environment and your car is the tolerated interloper. Animals only see the car - not the occupants - so you are safe inside. But as I mentioned, elephants need respect - and a quick get away route.
We saw another elephant herd later on this drive and 2 sets of 2 rhinos about a mile apart.
We saw another elephant herd later on this drive and 2 sets of 2 rhinos about a mile apart.
All of the above are white rhinoceros. Just so you know, white rhinos aren't white and black rhinos aren't black. They are both grey but often covered in mud. They have different diets: the white has a flat mouth for grazing and the black has a rounded mouth for browsing leaves. We did not see a black rhino on this trip.
Back to camp, we got down to some really serious business. My very first braai.
Since our stays later in this trip were all bushveld camps, I had to get this down. You see, I am lazy at home and use a gas grill and an electric smoker. I have not grilled with charcoal or real wood for a thousand years. We had bought some porterhouse steaks (we call these sirloin steaks) at Spar along with charcoal and some firewood and starter and I was going to dive in.
This trial run worked and very successfully I might add. We dined well that night and yes, a wood grill is better. And I will give you a tip here as well . . . if you ever run across Montreal Steak Spice, buy it. It was invented by Jewish delis in Montreal that are famous for their Montreal Smoked Meat – a pastrami variation. The spice is very yummy stuff and we brought a supply from home.
Since our stays later in this trip were all bushveld camps, I had to get this down. You see, I am lazy at home and use a gas grill and an electric smoker. I have not grilled with charcoal or real wood for a thousand years. We had bought some porterhouse steaks (we call these sirloin steaks) at Spar along with charcoal and some firewood and starter and I was going to dive in.
This trial run worked and very successfully I might add. We dined well that night and yes, a wood grill is better. And I will give you a tip here as well . . . if you ever run across Montreal Steak Spice, buy it. It was invented by Jewish delis in Montreal that are famous for their Montreal Smoked Meat – a pastrami variation. The spice is very yummy stuff and we brought a supply from home.