Greece
Trip Report: What can you say about a trip to Greece?
Heraklion, Crete
Day 10
We had a great time at the Eleonas. It was like going to a cottage resort – but one in the mountains of Crete. How cool is that? The lodging, the people, the food, the vistas – all were great. Manolis told me that typically 40% of his cabins are rented by repeat customers and I can see why. Highly recommended.
But it was time to move on once more. We hit the road around 10am with the sun blazing overhead. The convertible top was down, with the Palace of Knossos programmed on the TomTom and backup map in hand, we were ready for the road. The first 20 minutes of the drive was quite spectacular. From the moment I turned off of the known road in Zaros a mile from the Eleonas, it was a twisty, turning arm exercise until we got to the main road north in the village of Agia Vavara. We wound through the mountains and through the villages that clung precariously to them. Spectacular. Once again, photos were useless to capture the awesome scenery and the road was too narrow for pulling over anyway until one spot at the end. We picked up the main highway and with dramatically increased traffic, it was a fast straightish run north (down the mountain) to Heraklion. After the first set of lights on the outskirts, city driving mania kicked in and all that that entails. The TomTom did its thing and led us right to the entrance of the site of Knossos. It lies in a country setting just to the southeast of the city proper. A large free parking lot is on the left – just south of the palace grounds. I knew we were in trouble as I pulled into this very busy lot with 20 or more tour buses and a gaggle of cars in evidence. This meant a busy site. And it was. And it was also getting very hot once again.
I know I should have walked through the gate at opening or an hour before closing at this major site but our timing for this visit was non-negotiable because I had to drop the car at 4pm at the port. The entrance way was slammed with people shuffling to get in but the queue for tickets was only 2 minutes. It appeared that one or more tour groups lining up behind their particular umbrella woman had consumed all of the space in the entrance way. One gate attendant was taking non-tour singles in another line but you had to push your way through the crowd to get to him. Now it wasn’t just the sun that was making me simmer.
In the spirit of honesty, I will admit that I have a serious issue with tour groups. I know that they have an expectation to enjoy their trip as much as I do ours. I don’t personally see how they could possibly enjoy the experience but who am I to judge? And rather than debate that issue, I will just say IMHO that it is utterly useless to visit any important site that is within an hour of a cruise port during the prime middle hours of the day in season. I will never attempt it again. We saw it at Ephesus. And at Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. I saw it on our 2nd visit to Athens which I will touch on later. And most definitely in Fira on Santorini. At Knossos, the herd-like crowds smothered the site making the visit pointless. I snapped some decent photos but we only saw about ½ the area before we gave up. The mob scene around the entrance to the throne room killed any desire to wade through that mess. The most disheartening thing however, was that at one point during our retreat, I had to carve a path through a tour horde that was five abreast on a walkway. They would not give way. I told them I was coming through – and I did – with my wife following in my wake. It was not pretty.
We had a great time at the Eleonas. It was like going to a cottage resort – but one in the mountains of Crete. How cool is that? The lodging, the people, the food, the vistas – all were great. Manolis told me that typically 40% of his cabins are rented by repeat customers and I can see why. Highly recommended.
But it was time to move on once more. We hit the road around 10am with the sun blazing overhead. The convertible top was down, with the Palace of Knossos programmed on the TomTom and backup map in hand, we were ready for the road. The first 20 minutes of the drive was quite spectacular. From the moment I turned off of the known road in Zaros a mile from the Eleonas, it was a twisty, turning arm exercise until we got to the main road north in the village of Agia Vavara. We wound through the mountains and through the villages that clung precariously to them. Spectacular. Once again, photos were useless to capture the awesome scenery and the road was too narrow for pulling over anyway until one spot at the end. We picked up the main highway and with dramatically increased traffic, it was a fast straightish run north (down the mountain) to Heraklion. After the first set of lights on the outskirts, city driving mania kicked in and all that that entails. The TomTom did its thing and led us right to the entrance of the site of Knossos. It lies in a country setting just to the southeast of the city proper. A large free parking lot is on the left – just south of the palace grounds. I knew we were in trouble as I pulled into this very busy lot with 20 or more tour buses and a gaggle of cars in evidence. This meant a busy site. And it was. And it was also getting very hot once again.
I know I should have walked through the gate at opening or an hour before closing at this major site but our timing for this visit was non-negotiable because I had to drop the car at 4pm at the port. The entrance way was slammed with people shuffling to get in but the queue for tickets was only 2 minutes. It appeared that one or more tour groups lining up behind their particular umbrella woman had consumed all of the space in the entrance way. One gate attendant was taking non-tour singles in another line but you had to push your way through the crowd to get to him. Now it wasn’t just the sun that was making me simmer.
In the spirit of honesty, I will admit that I have a serious issue with tour groups. I know that they have an expectation to enjoy their trip as much as I do ours. I don’t personally see how they could possibly enjoy the experience but who am I to judge? And rather than debate that issue, I will just say IMHO that it is utterly useless to visit any important site that is within an hour of a cruise port during the prime middle hours of the day in season. I will never attempt it again. We saw it at Ephesus. And at Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. I saw it on our 2nd visit to Athens which I will touch on later. And most definitely in Fira on Santorini. At Knossos, the herd-like crowds smothered the site making the visit pointless. I snapped some decent photos but we only saw about ½ the area before we gave up. The mob scene around the entrance to the throne room killed any desire to wade through that mess. The most disheartening thing however, was that at one point during our retreat, I had to carve a path through a tour horde that was five abreast on a walkway. They would not give way. I told them I was coming through – and I did – with my wife following in my wake. It was not pretty.
Athur Evan's restored Palace of Knossos ruins
Out of the front gates, we stopped for lunch at one of the restaurants across the road – the open one right across from the local bus stop and it wasn’t bad for a snack. Then it was back into the car for the drive to the port. I called Anna Cars and arranged for a 2pm early pickup which gave us an hour to find our way to the hotel and then on to the port to meet them at “the building on the right.” This only involved a moderate bit of mania – including a blown red light (whoops) and a mad bus driver who didn’t like the place where I attempted to pull over near the hotel. Since there was zero parking in the immediate area we skipped the hotel for now and just drove to the port and waited for ½ an hour for the guys to arrive. They were overjoyed that I called early because the car was needed at Chania airport for a long-term rental at 5pm and I saved them a car swap etc. They happily dropped us at our hotel. Anna Cars - highly recommended.
Our hotel – Marin Dream – was just across and down the road from the port. We could see all of the ferries from our balcony. The popular Lato Hotel was on the corner of the next block. Both hotels were very convenient if you have a morning ferry to catch. The hotel was OK and the room was a basic OK. At the price, I wasn’t expecting the Ritz. The counter lady kindly comp’d us a coffee while we waited 15 minutes for our room to be readied. They also had free Raki for guests in the lobby . . .
Our hotel – Marin Dream – was just across and down the road from the port. We could see all of the ferries from our balcony. The popular Lato Hotel was on the corner of the next block. Both hotels were very convenient if you have a morning ferry to catch. The hotel was OK and the room was a basic OK. At the price, I wasn’t expecting the Ritz. The counter lady kindly comp’d us a coffee while we waited 15 minutes for our room to be readied. They also had free Raki for guests in the lobby . . .
- Review Marin Dream Hotel "Good for A Night" We stayed here for one night in preparation for a ferry to Santorini. A smallish room with a balcony with harbor view. Rm 201. Two twin beds with individual coverings slammed together. A slight odor in the bathroom from the drain. It was good enough for one night. The staff were very friendly & helpful. Breakfast was not bad - not great. For €80 it is hard to be super critical. A €7 taxi got us to the port so we didn't have to schlep our bags over the rough sidewalks.
After a quick baggage dump, we hit the streets to pick up our ferry tickets. I had pre-booked months out through the Paleologos agency in Heraklion. Or is it Heraklia? Or Iraklion? Maybe Irákleio? Anyways, the agency was in the last block of 25th August St on the right-hand side closest to the harbor. Tickets in hand, we sauntered up the pedestrian only street. Accompanied by the contents of a French cruise ship (it would seem), we browsed (actually only she because he stayed on the sidewalk) up through the street’s tourist shops. Eventually, we spiked off – map in hand – to find the Heraklion Archaeological Museum. OK, this one gets a big WOW! It just re-opened in May after years of being a temporary selection and it was still a work in progress with empty rooms and a few unfinished displays. But the treasures displayed delivered the goods! The bits and pieces of the Minoan age are stunning to see. The frescoes alone make this museum a must. And around 4:30pm it was only lightly touristed. No museum guide was available so you have to remember to go up the unmarked stairs to find the frescoes. Sitting out front after our visit even I finally noticed that the columns that lined the front were painted Minoan red . . .
The new Heraklion Archaeological Museum
A refreshing limone gelato in the busy main square gave us the energy to walk back through the dismal streets. Grey. Graffiti. Ugly. This is not a pretty town. A block from the tourist areas, the cracks show through. Every sidewalk is a multi-level challenge. Cars are sometimes parked so tight at street corners that you can’t wedge through to cross the street. And did I mention the graffiti?
For dinner, we booked and greatly enjoyed the restaurant that is at the top of the Lato Hotel. It had a wonderful harbor view – on a higher level than our balcony. The meal was very tasty.
For dinner, we booked and greatly enjoyed the restaurant that is at the top of the Lato Hotel. It had a wonderful harbor view – on a higher level than our balcony. The meal was very tasty.
- Review Herbs Garden "A Nice Surprise" After walking a bit of Heraklion, our expectation level was not high. We were staying down the road & this was an easy option. Seated at a window table, the harbor view was very nice. Our waiter was a tad pretentious but the food quality & presentation & wine selection were all much better than we thought going in. Not cheap, but not crazy either.
- We had Greek salad and phyllo appetizers with a pasta and the sea bass as mains. All very good.