Spain
Trip Report June 2005
Searching for Moors
Granada
Searching for Moors
Granada
Parador de Granada 271€ Std Dbl
The Parador is housed in an old Monastery originally built as a mosque in 1354. It is on the grounds between the Generalife & Nasrid right in the Alhambra. Ask for a room in the old part which has a tented inner courtyard & a shrine & a cute chapel & many antiques. Our room was small compared to the other Paradors, but very nice with a great view across to the Generalife (which you don't know until you walk it). |
Day 5 Thursday - Jaén to Granada
We left Jaén at 9:30 & arrived in Granada at 11. Beautiful scenery all of the way through mountains covered with olive groves once again. The route to Alhambra is well signed along the highway and this easily led us to our destination. We had a little trouble finding the Parador turn in from the main Alhambra road since we missed the little sign on the 1st swing by. We circled the hill & found it on the second swing without the driver getting too hysterical. To get to various hotels and restaurants inside and beside the Alhambra, veer left at the main parking area. You will have shops and restaurants to your left. Right beside the ticket booth a small sign points you back to the Alhambra road (on the right) and a guard needs to see some proof that you are staying at the Parador (or Hotel America) which are both on the grounds. Once you are in, you will have to negotiate your way through 10,000 tourists as you drive up the last stretch. And they are all absolutely stunned that they must move for you.
From the Parador, it is an easy walk back down the same way to the ticket area to pick up your 'pre-arranged' Alhambra tickets for later in the day. You did pre--arrange them, right? In peak times, you might be disappointed if you didn't. Bear in mind that this is one the most popular tourist attractions in Spain. We had decided to devote our entire stay in Granada to the magnificent Alhambra. We stayed and ate on the grounds for our sole night in town. Imho it is one of the most beautiful structures that man has built and it deserved our undivided attention. It is actually a number of different palaces and castles: 9th Century fortifications lead the hill, the 11th through 15th Century palace of the Nasrid Dynasty, the 14th Century Generalife and the 17th Century palace of Charles V.
After successfully securing our tickets, it was back up to the Parador for a quick sandwich with some refreshing sangria before we set out for our timed entry into the Nasrid Palace.
Yes, it was very hot again. We walked the exterior castle of the Alhambra, then through the addition from Charles V and into the cool chambers of the spectacular Nasrid Palace and its smaller out buildings. Words and pictures just don't do it justice. Then it was out through the lush gardens to the splashing fountains of the Generalife on the next hill to finish the visit. Wow.
With acute architectural overload - and near-heat prostration - we went back to the room for a siesta and then dinner at the Parador. Same price again (27€ for 3 courses) + a bottle of Margués de Cáceres Gran Reserva 1995 (28€). The wait staff collapsed 1/2 through dinner and I complained to the restaurant manager. The quality and service was not even close to the other Paradors which had true 'gourmet' food. Here it was just OK. We walked the Alhambra grounds in the dark after our meal. While we didn't have tickets for the Nasrid night viewing, it was still mighty magical.
Maybe next time we will actually see some of Granada as well . . .
We left Jaén at 9:30 & arrived in Granada at 11. Beautiful scenery all of the way through mountains covered with olive groves once again. The route to Alhambra is well signed along the highway and this easily led us to our destination. We had a little trouble finding the Parador turn in from the main Alhambra road since we missed the little sign on the 1st swing by. We circled the hill & found it on the second swing without the driver getting too hysterical. To get to various hotels and restaurants inside and beside the Alhambra, veer left at the main parking area. You will have shops and restaurants to your left. Right beside the ticket booth a small sign points you back to the Alhambra road (on the right) and a guard needs to see some proof that you are staying at the Parador (or Hotel America) which are both on the grounds. Once you are in, you will have to negotiate your way through 10,000 tourists as you drive up the last stretch. And they are all absolutely stunned that they must move for you.
From the Parador, it is an easy walk back down the same way to the ticket area to pick up your 'pre-arranged' Alhambra tickets for later in the day. You did pre--arrange them, right? In peak times, you might be disappointed if you didn't. Bear in mind that this is one the most popular tourist attractions in Spain. We had decided to devote our entire stay in Granada to the magnificent Alhambra. We stayed and ate on the grounds for our sole night in town. Imho it is one of the most beautiful structures that man has built and it deserved our undivided attention. It is actually a number of different palaces and castles: 9th Century fortifications lead the hill, the 11th through 15th Century palace of the Nasrid Dynasty, the 14th Century Generalife and the 17th Century palace of Charles V.
After successfully securing our tickets, it was back up to the Parador for a quick sandwich with some refreshing sangria before we set out for our timed entry into the Nasrid Palace.
Yes, it was very hot again. We walked the exterior castle of the Alhambra, then through the addition from Charles V and into the cool chambers of the spectacular Nasrid Palace and its smaller out buildings. Words and pictures just don't do it justice. Then it was out through the lush gardens to the splashing fountains of the Generalife on the next hill to finish the visit. Wow.
With acute architectural overload - and near-heat prostration - we went back to the room for a siesta and then dinner at the Parador. Same price again (27€ for 3 courses) + a bottle of Margués de Cáceres Gran Reserva 1995 (28€). The wait staff collapsed 1/2 through dinner and I complained to the restaurant manager. The quality and service was not even close to the other Paradors which had true 'gourmet' food. Here it was just OK. We walked the Alhambra grounds in the dark after our meal. While we didn't have tickets for the Nasrid night viewing, it was still mighty magical.
Maybe next time we will actually see some of Granada as well . . .
Parador Sidebar
Be aware, that there is a sameness to all of the Paradors. Same soap, same towels, similar menus, same bathrobes etc. All have a bar & a restaurant. All have a taster's menu (4 courses 35€) & a general menu (3 courses 27€) & a la carte of course. Lunch in the restaurant is the same menu as dinner, but you can sometimes eat at the bar for lunch. Breakfast was very good but a hefty 11€ each. They are often positioned in remote or access limited places, so you tend to eat & drink there rather than face a drive to town for other restaurants (well, we did anyway). The sameness is good too, because the service, friendliness (and English language) can be a constant in a foreign country.
Room Prices: Almagro for 2 nights $354€ (bigger than average room) - Jaén for 2 nights 318€ (normal room with balcony) - Granada for 1 night 271€.
Driving Sidebar
The Spanish Autovias are great highways. Well signed & fast with posted 120 km/hr in rural areas. I drove 130 km/hr & was passed by many Audis, Benzes & BMWs. Drivers are very respectful & use the passing lane as it was meant. Not like the cell phone-talking SUV-driving jerks we have in North America. 2 lane roads were also very good once you get the hang of the round-a-bouts. We drove top down in the convertible until 1:00 PM most days when it got too hot - even with AC on full.
Language Sidebar
As I mentioned above, language was only a problem in restaurants, where our trusty translating book (Lonely Planet) came in handy. Other useful phrases: La cuente (kooenta) is the bill in a restaurant (or use the universal writing in the air as a signal), café solo is black expresso coffee & café con leche (lecchay I think) is with hot milk. Por favor (poor favor) is please. Agua con gas (gaz - water with bubbles) sin gas (no bubbles). Red wine is vino tinto. Good is buenas. Buenas dias is good day, noche is night (bwaynas diaz, nochay). And that's all you'll need. Hahaha.
Be aware, that there is a sameness to all of the Paradors. Same soap, same towels, similar menus, same bathrobes etc. All have a bar & a restaurant. All have a taster's menu (4 courses 35€) & a general menu (3 courses 27€) & a la carte of course. Lunch in the restaurant is the same menu as dinner, but you can sometimes eat at the bar for lunch. Breakfast was very good but a hefty 11€ each. They are often positioned in remote or access limited places, so you tend to eat & drink there rather than face a drive to town for other restaurants (well, we did anyway). The sameness is good too, because the service, friendliness (and English language) can be a constant in a foreign country.
Room Prices: Almagro for 2 nights $354€ (bigger than average room) - Jaén for 2 nights 318€ (normal room with balcony) - Granada for 1 night 271€.
Driving Sidebar
The Spanish Autovias are great highways. Well signed & fast with posted 120 km/hr in rural areas. I drove 130 km/hr & was passed by many Audis, Benzes & BMWs. Drivers are very respectful & use the passing lane as it was meant. Not like the cell phone-talking SUV-driving jerks we have in North America. 2 lane roads were also very good once you get the hang of the round-a-bouts. We drove top down in the convertible until 1:00 PM most days when it got too hot - even with AC on full.
Language Sidebar
As I mentioned above, language was only a problem in restaurants, where our trusty translating book (Lonely Planet) came in handy. Other useful phrases: La cuente (kooenta) is the bill in a restaurant (or use the universal writing in the air as a signal), café solo is black expresso coffee & café con leche (lecchay I think) is with hot milk. Por favor (poor favor) is please. Agua con gas (gaz - water with bubbles) sin gas (no bubbles). Red wine is vino tinto. Good is buenas. Buenas dias is good day, noche is night (bwaynas diaz, nochay). And that's all you'll need. Hahaha.